Method

25 Boiled and Simmered Greek Recipes

Soups, pulses, greens and the egg-lemon technique. The quietest cooking in the repertoire and some of the best of it.

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Soups, pulses, greens and the egg and lemon technique. This is the quietest cooking in the Greek kitchen and some of the best of it.

Pulses come first. Fasolada is white beans simmered slowly with celery, carrot and a great deal of olive oil. Lentil soup is finished with vinegar at the table. Yellow split peas cook down to a puree with no blender needed. Horta are boiled greens, and the cooking water is drunk, not thrown away.

Then avgolemono, the egg and lemon that finishes chicken and rice soup, the meatball soup and the Easter offal soup. Stuffed vine leaves simmer under a weighted plate. Even the coffee belongs here, brought up slowly in a briki.

Every recipe on Kalliopi's Kitchen carries the dish's Greek name and a pronunciation, its region where that is meaningful, ingredient quantities in both metric and imperial, and an honest note on what commonly goes wrong. Nutrition figures are calculated estimates and are labelled as such.

  1. 1. Avgolemono Soup

    Kotosoupa avgolemono · Κοτόσουπα αυγολέμονο · ahv-gho-LEH-mo-no

    Avgo is egg and lemoni is lemon. Whisked together and loosened with hot broth, they thicken a soup with no flour and no cream. It is what a Greek kitchen makes when somebody has flu. The broth goes into the eggs one ladle at a time, away from the heat, or they scramble.

    Yiayia’s tip: Room temperature eggs. Cold eggs hitting hot broth is a bigger temperature shock and a bigger curdling risk. Take them out of the fridge half an hour ahead.

    1h 30m · Serves 6 · Intermediate

    Make Avgolemono Soup
  2. 2. Horta

    Horta vrasta · Χόρτα βραστά · HOR-tah vrah-STAH

    Nothing in Greek cooking is plainer, and it may be the most important thing in it: boiled greens with olive oil and lemon, eaten several times a week. Dandelion, chicory, amaranth and beet greens all go in the pot. They are cooked soft and drab, never bright green, because wild greens are tough and bitter.

    Yiayia’s tip: Wash more than you think necessary. Grit in horta ruins it and is very hard to detect until you are eating. Lift the greens out of the water rather than tipping the whole lot into a colander.

    35m · Serves 4 · Beginner

    Make Horta
  3. 3. How to Make Greek Coffee in a Briki

    Ellinikos kafes · Ελληνικός καφές · eh-lee-nee-KOS kah-FES

    Neither espresso nor filter. The grounds are cooked in the water, poured into the cup with it and left to settle at the bottom. The one skill is not letting it boil, because boiling kills the kaimaki, the dense foam on top. Sugar goes in with the water, since stirring later lifts the grounds.

    Yiayia’s tip: Match the briki to the quantity. A briki should be roughly two thirds full for the foam to build properly. Making one cup in a large briki gives you almost no kaimaki.

    7m · Serves 2 · Beginner

    Make How to Make Greek Coffee in a Briki
  4. 4. Fasolada

    Φασολάδα · fah-so-LAH-thah

    Routinely called the national dish, and the claim holds up: for centuries, all over the country, this was what people ate several times a week. It is filling, costs little and is allowed in every fast. No stock goes in, only water. Too little olive oil or too little time, and it stays bean water.

    Yiayia’s tip: Boil hard for five minutes first. The initial hard boil and change of water removes compounds that cause digestive discomfort and gives a cleaner-tasting soup.

    1h 45m · Serves 6 · Beginner

    Make Fasolada
  5. 5. Yellow Split Pea Puree

    Fava Santorinis · Φάβα Σαντορίνης · FAH-vah san-to-REE-nees

    There are no fava beans in it. Greek fava is yellow split peas, and Santorini has its own protected variety, grown there for thousands of years. The peas collapse by themselves, and a wooden spoon gives a silkier puree than a machine. It comes warm, under raw onion, capers and a pool of oil.

    Yiayia’s tip: Skim relentlessly. The foam in the first ten minutes is where the muddy taste lives. Take it all off and the finished puree is noticeably sweeter and cleaner.

    1h · Serves 6 · Beginner

    Make Yellow Split Pea Puree
  6. 6. Dolmades

    Ντολμάδες · dol-MAH-des

    An hour of rolling and no way round it, which is why Greek families do it together at a table, talking. These are the rice and herb ones, served cold, called yialantzi. The word means liar, because they pass themselves off as the meat version. They belong on a meze table and keep for days.

    Yiayia’s tip: Under-fill rather than over-fill. A teaspoon per leaf. The rice triples in volume and an over-filled dolma splits along the seam every time.

    1h 50m · Serves 8 · Intermediate

    Make Dolmades
  7. 7. Lentil Soup with Vinegar

    Fakes · Φακές · fah-KES

    Two soups fed Greece. Fasolada is one and this is the other, the quicker of them, since lentils go in unsoaked and are soft within the hour. There is little else: onion, garlic, bay, some tomato and a lot of olive oil. The vinegar goes into each bowl at the table, never the pot.

    Yiayia’s tip: Salt only when tender. Salt added early toughens lentil skins and can add twenty minutes to the cooking time for no benefit.

    1h 7m · Serves 6 · Beginner

    Make Lentil Soup with Vinegar
  8. 8. Cypriot Stuffed Vine Leaves with Meat

    Koupepia · Κουπέπια · koo-PEH-pee-ah

    In Cyprus the everyday word for stuffed vine leaves is koupepia, and the everyday kind has meat in it. This is what a Cypriot household makes on a Sunday. Mint runs through the filling where dolmades would have dill, and many families pour avgolemono over at the end. The rolling takes an hour.

    Yiayia’s tip: Roll tighter than feels necessary. The rice triples in volume. A loose roll is a roll that opens in the pot.

    1h 50m · Serves 6 · Intermediate

    Make Cypriot Stuffed Vine Leaves with Meat
  9. 9. Cypriot Black-Eyed Bean Salad with Chard

    Louvi · Λούβι · LOO-vee

    Fasting-day food in Cyprus, and nobody at the table feels deprived. Black-eyed beans are simmered with chard or spinach, given olive oil and lemon while still warm, then left to cool. It is a Lenten staple, vegan as it stands. Serve it as a full plate with bread and olives, not as a side.

    Yiayia’s tip: No soaking needed. Black-eyed beans are thin-skinned enough to cook from fully dry in under an hour, unlike most other dried pulses.

    55m · Serves 4 · Beginner

    Make Cypriot Black-Eyed Bean Salad with Chard
  10. 10. Cypriot Grape Must and Almond Candy

    Soutzoukos · Σουτζιούκος · soo-JOO-kos

    Almonds or walnuts are threaded on a string and dunked over and over in grape must cooked thick, each dip adding a layer until the coat is firm and chewy. Cyprus makes it in autumn, when there are fresh grapes. It has no refined sugar. The work is slow, not hard.

    Yiayia’s tip: Reduce shop-bought grape juice first. Simmering it down by about a third before you start concentrates the flavour closer to genuine fresh must.

    1h 40m · Serves 12 · Intermediate

    Make Cypriot Grape Must and Almond Candy
  11. 11. Mahalepi

    Μαχαλεπί · mah-hah-leh-PEE

    A milk pudding set with cornflour and no eggs, which makes it a soft blancmange more than a custard. The Cypriot one takes a pinch of ground mastic, which leaves a faint resinous scent. It is eaten cold under a syrup of rose water or orange blossom. Hot-weather food, not for after a heavy meal.

    Yiayia’s tip: Whisk the cornflour into cold milk first. Adding it directly to hot milk gives you a lumpy pudding no amount of stirring afterwards fixes.

    30m · Serves 6 · Beginner

    Make Mahalepi
  12. 12. Cyprus Delights, Rose and Mastic

    Loukoumia · Λουκούμια · loo-KOO-mee-ah

    Cyprus's own Turkish delight, flavoured with rose water and mastic, and the town of Geroskipou near Paphos has protected status for its style. It is patient work, not difficult work: a syrup, a cornflour paste, a long slow cook, then cubes rolled in icing sugar.

    Yiayia’s tip: Do not stop cooking early. The long, slow cook is what sets the texture. A mixture that looks done at twenty minutes is not done.

    1h 30m · Serves 30 · Intermediate

    Make Cyprus Delights, Rose and Mastic
  13. 13. Skordalia

    Σκορδαλιά · skor-dah-lee-AH

    Skordo is garlic in Greek, and the dip is as loud as its name. It goes with bakaliaros, the fried salt cod eaten on March 25th. That is Greek Independence Day and it lands in Lent, so a dip without dairy suits the fast. Mash the potato by hand. A food processor makes wallpaper paste.

    Yiayia’s tip: Boil the potatoes whole and unpeeled. This keeps them from absorbing extra water, which would otherwise thin the finished dip.

    35m · Serves 6 · Beginner

    Make Skordalia
  14. 14. Easter Offal and Herb Soup

    Magiritsa · Μαγειρίτσα · mah-yee-REE-tsah

    Made to break seven weeks of Lent, and eaten on Holy Saturday just after midnight, straight from church. The offal comes from the same lamb that gives its leg and shoulder to Easter Sunday. Spring onion, dill and lettuce are half the dish. Liver and heart alone, without the intestines, is a legitimate version.

    Yiayia’s tip: Ask your butcher for prepared offal around Easter. Many Greek and Cypriot butchers stock cleaned lamb offal specifically for magiritsa at exactly this time of year, saving significant preparation work.

    2h 30m · Serves 8 · Advanced

    Make Easter Offal and Herb Soup
  15. 15. Sesame and Honey Bars

    Pasteli · Παστέλι · pah-STEH-lee

    Ancient Greek writers mention this as food carried by athletes, and it has barely changed since: toasted sesame seeds bound in hot honey and pressed flat to set. No baking, and under half an hour. The honey must cook until properly thick or the bars stay soft. It keeps for weeks with no special storage.

    Yiayia’s tip: Watch the sesame closely while toasting. It goes from perfectly toasted to burnt within moments. Stir constantly and pull it the second it smells fragrant.

    25m · Serves 16 · Beginner

    Make Sesame and Honey Bars
  16. 16. Corfu Almond Nougat

    Mandolato · Μαντολάτο · man-doh-LAH-toh

    Nougat made for Easter on Corfu, and a close relative of Italian torrone, which is the island's Venetian history showing. Cooked honey is whipped into stiff egg whites over low heat until thick, pale and glossy, then toasted almonds go in and it sets between sheets of rice paper. It tests patience more than skill.

    Yiayia’s tip: Cook the honey to a real soft-ball stage. Undercooking it leaves the finished nougat soft and sticky rather than properly firm. A sugar thermometer removes the guesswork.

    55m · Serves 16 · Advanced

    Make Corfu Almond Nougat
  17. 17. Peloponnese Egg Pasta with Chicken

    Hylopites · Χυλοπίτες · hee-loh-PEE-tes

    Squares of egg pasta that Peloponnese households once rolled, cut and dried in the sun to keep for months. Most now buy them. They simmer in a broth of chicken and tomato, not in water, and their starch thickens the pot into something like a rustic risotto. Watch the liquid in the last ten minutes.

    Yiayia’s tip: Brown the chicken properly first. This single step builds most of the sauce's depth. Do not rush past it to get to the simmering stage.

    2h · Serves 6 · Intermediate

    Make Peloponnese Egg Pasta with Chicken
  18. 18. Trahanas Soup

    Soupa trahana · Σούπα τραχανά · SOO-pah trah-hah-NAH

    The work is done months earlier. In late summer, once a year, cracked wheat is mixed with milk or yogurt, left to ferment a little, sun-dried and crumbled into granules that keep for months. Simmered in water or stock they make a thick, tangy soup within twenty minutes. Eat it hot, before it turns stodgy.

    Yiayia’s tip: Add the trahanas gradually. Tipping it all in at once causes clumping. A slow, steady addition while stirring keeps it smooth.

    30m · Serves 4 · Beginner

    Make Trahanas Soup
  19. 19. Meatball Soup in Avgolemono

    Giouvarlakia · Γιουβαρλάκια · yoo-var-LAH-kyah

    Meatballs and soup in one pot. The mince is bound with raw rice and poached in broth as small balls, so the rice cooks inside them. Egg and lemon go in at the end, and avgolemono will not wait or reheat, so everybody sits down first. Winter food across the mainland, tied to no region.

    Yiayia’s tip: Keep the poaching liquid at a bare simmer. A vigorous boil knocks the meatballs apart. Low and gentle throughout is what keeps them intact.

    1h 15m · Serves 6 · Intermediate

    Make Meatball Soup in Avgolemono
  20. 20. Rhodes Sesame and Honey Wedding Sweet

    Melekouni · Μελεκούνι · meh-leh-KOO-nee

    The wedding sweet of Rhodes, given to the guests and sometimes stamped with a pattern. It is close to pasteli, sesame bound in honey, but warmer and more aromatic because cinnamon and orange zest run through it, and it is cut into diamonds, not bars. Cut it while still slightly warm, or it cracks.

    Yiayia’s tip: Remove the cinnamon and zest before adding sesame. You want their flavour infused into the honey, not large pieces left in the finished sweet.

    40m · Serves 16 · Intermediate

    Make Rhodes Sesame and Honey Wedding Sweet
  21. 21. Warm Raki with Honey and Spices

    Rakomelo · Ρακόμελο · rah-KOH-meh-loh

    Crete's raki is a clear spirit distilled from the skins, stems and seeds left after the grapes are pressed. Warmed with cinnamon, clove and honey it turns into a winter drink, taken slowly in small cups. Households turn to it when a cold or sore throat is starting. Use plain raki, never an aniseed one.

    Yiayia’s tip: Never let it boil. Boiling drives off the alcohol along with much of the aroma. Keep the heat low throughout.

    13m · Serves 4 · Beginner

    Make Warm Raki with Honey and Spices
  22. 22. Makarounes Karpathou

    Μακαρούνες Καρπάθου · mah-kah-ROO-nes kar-PAH-thoo

    Karpathos makes its pasta by hand: flour and water, rolled into short, thick pieces. Three things go on the plate: the pasta, onion cooked down dark and sweet, and a heavy grating of hard cheese. The cheese is the third essential part of the dish, not a garnish. Humble food, and filling.

    Yiayia’s tip: Do not rush the onion. A genuine thirty to forty minutes over low heat is what gives it the deep, sweet, jammy quality the dish depends on. Higher heat browns it unevenly and bitterly instead.

    1h 30m · Serves 6 · Intermediate

    Make Makarounes Karpathou
  23. 23. Chicken and Rice Soup

    Kotosoupa avgolemono · Κοτόσουπα αυγολέμονο · koh-TOH-soo-pah av-goh-LEH-moh-noh

    What a Greek household makes when somebody is unwell, and on ordinary weeknights too. A whole chicken becomes the broth, the rice cooks in it, and beaten egg and lemon thicken the pot with no cream or flour. It needs patience more than skill. It does not reheat well, so serve it straight away.

    Yiayia’s tip: Do not rush the broth. A genuine ninety minutes to two hours is what builds a properly rich base. A short simmer leaves the whole soup tasting thin.

    1h 50m · Serves 6 · Beginner

    Make Chicken and Rice Soup
  24. 24. Lentils and Rice

    Fakorizo · Φακόρυζο · fah-KOH-ree-zoh

    Lentil soup with rice cooked into the same pot, which makes it thick enough to eat like a pilaf. It is cheap store-cupboard food that saw Greek families through the fasts and the lean years. The step people skip is the last one: vinegar and olive oil, heated and poured over just before serving.

    Yiayia’s tip: Add the lentils first, then the rice. Lentils need considerably longer to cook. Staggering the two lets them finish tender together.

    50m · Serves 4 · Beginner

    Make Lentils and Rice
  25. 25. Potato Salad

    Patatosalata · Πατατοσαλάτα · pah-tah-toh-sah-LAH-tah

    There is no mayonnaise in a Greek potato salad. Olive oil and red wine vinegar go on while the potatoes are warm, when they take the dressing in instead of wearing it on the outside. Red onion, capers and fresh herbs finish it. It travels better in the heat than a mayonnaise salad.

    Yiayia’s tip: Boil the potatoes whole and unpeeled. This keeps them from absorbing extra water, which would otherwise dilute the finished salad's flavour.

    45m · Serves 6 · Beginner

    Make Potato Salad
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