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Diet

25 Vegan Greek Recipes

Nistisima cooking is vegan cooking under another name, developed over centuries without ever using the word. Ladera, pulses, greens and phyllo pies made with oil.

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Nistisima cooking, the food of the Orthodox fasts, is vegan cooking under another name. It was developed over centuries without anyone using the word.

It runs on pulses, greens and vegetables cooked in olive oil. Baked giant beans, fasolada, lentil soup with vinegar, yellow split pea puree. Briam, gemista, spanakorizo, leeks with rice. Horta. Dolmades filled with rice and herbs.

The baking does without butter and eggs as a matter of course: the tahini spiral bread from Cyprus, the spice cake for Saint Fanourios, cornbread with greens from Epirus. Start with the giant beans. They are better the day after they are made.

Every recipe on Kalliopi's Kitchen carries the dish's Greek name and a pronunciation, its region where that is meaningful, ingredient quantities in both metric and imperial, and an honest note on what commonly goes wrong. Nutrition figures are calculated estimates and are labelled as such.

  1. 1. Baked Giant Beans in Tomato

    Gigantes plaki · Γίγαντες πλακί · YEE-ghan-des plah-KEE

    The beans come mainly from Kastoria and Prespes in northern Greece. They are larger and creamier than a butter bean and drink up sauce without collapsing. This is a ladera dish: the olive oil is the sauce, not a mistake in the recipe. It is vegan as it stands, and on every Greek fasting table.

    Yiayia’s tip: Old beans never soften. Dried beans more than a year or so old can refuse to cook properly no matter what you do. If a batch is still hard after an hour of simmering, the beans are the problem, not your method.

    2h 5m · Serves 6 · Beginner

    Make Baked Giant Beans in Tomato

  2. 2. Smoky Aubergine Dip

    Melitzanosalata · Μελιτζανοσαλάτα · meh-lee-tzah-no-sah-LAH-tah

    The first ten minutes decide it. The aubergines are charred whole on a bare flame until the skin blackens and the flesh goes slack, and that smoke is the dish. An oven gives a beige puree that tastes of very little. Greeks still argue about vinegar or lemon, and whether walnuts belong in it.

    Yiayia’s tip: Do not rinse the flesh. It is tempting when flecks of black skin get mixed in, but rinsing removes the smoke you spent twenty minutes creating. A few black flecks are a sign you did it right.

    45m · Serves 6 · Beginner

    Make Smoky Aubergine Dip

  3. 3. Horta

    Horta vrasta · Χόρτα βραστά · HOR-tah vrah-STAH

    Nothing in Greek cooking is plainer, and it may be the most important thing in it: boiled greens with olive oil and lemon, eaten several times a week. Dandelion, chicory, amaranth and beet greens all go in the pot. They are cooked soft and drab, never bright green, because wild greens are tough and bitter.

    Yiayia’s tip: Wash more than you think necessary. Grit in horta ruins it and is very hard to detect until you are eating. Lift the greens out of the water rather than tipping the whole lot into a colander.

    35m · Serves 4 · Beginner

    Make Horta

  4. 4. How to Make Greek Coffee in a Briki

    Ellinikos kafes · Ελληνικός καφές · eh-lee-nee-KOS kah-FES

    Neither espresso nor filter. The grounds are cooked in the water, poured into the cup with it and left to settle at the bottom. The one skill is not letting it boil, because boiling kills the kaimaki, the dense foam on top. Sugar goes in with the water, since stirring later lifts the grounds.

    Yiayia’s tip: Match the briki to the quantity. A briki should be roughly two thirds full for the foam to build properly. Making one cup in a large briki gives you almost no kaimaki.

    7m · Serves 2 · Beginner

    Make How to Make Greek Coffee in a Briki

  5. 5. Gemista

    Γεμιστά · yeh-mee-STAH

    Stuffed tomatoes and peppers, and two rules govern them. The rice is raw when it goes in, and nothing is filled past two thirds, because rice cooked first goes to paste and a full tomato bursts. The potatoes wedged in the gaps catch the juices. Many Greeks think them the best thing in the tray.

    Yiayia’s tip: Salt and drain the tomato shells. Ten minutes upside down removes excess water that would otherwise make the rice sloppy.

    2h 10m · Serves 6 · Beginner

    Make Gemista

  6. 6. Fasolada

    Φασολάδα · fah-so-LAH-thah

    Routinely called the national dish, and the claim holds up: for centuries, all over the country, this was what people ate several times a week. It is filling, costs little and is allowed in every fast. No stock goes in, only water. Too little olive oil or too little time, and it stays bean water.

    Yiayia’s tip: Boil hard for five minutes first. The initial hard boil and change of water removes compounds that cause digestive discomfort and gives a cleaner-tasting soup.

    1h 45m · Serves 6 · Beginner

    Make Fasolada

  7. 7. Briam

    Μπριάμ · bree-AHM

    It looks like ratatouille and works the opposite way. Ratatouille keeps each vegetable separate. Here courgette, aubergine, pepper, potato and tomato all go in one tray and cook until they stop being separate things, their water and the olive oil turning to sauce. Forty minutes gives roasted vegetables. Ninety gives briam.

    Yiayia’s tip: Use a big tray. A deep pile takes far longer and steams rather than browning. A large shallow layer is what you want, even if it means using two tins.

    2h · Serves 6 · Beginner

    Make Briam

  8. 8. Yellow Split Pea Puree

    Fava Santorinis · Φάβα Σαντορίνης · FAH-vah san-to-REE-nees

    There are no fava beans in it. Greek fava is yellow split peas, and Santorini has its own protected variety, grown there for thousands of years. The peas collapse by themselves, and a wooden spoon gives a silkier puree than a machine. It comes warm, under raw onion, capers and a pool of oil.

    Yiayia’s tip: Skim relentlessly. The foam in the first ten minutes is where the muddy taste lives. Take it all off and the finished puree is noticeably sweeter and cleaner.

    1h · Serves 6 · Beginner

    Make Yellow Split Pea Puree

  9. 9. Dolmades

    Ντολμάδες · dol-MAH-des

    An hour of rolling and no way round it, which is why Greek families do it together at a table, talking. These are the rice and herb ones, served cold, called yialantzi. The word means liar, because they pass themselves off as the meat version. They belong on a meze table and keep for days.

    Yiayia’s tip: Under-fill rather than over-fill. A teaspoon per leaf. The rice triples in volume and an over-filled dolma splits along the seam every time.

    1h 50m · Serves 8 · Intermediate

    Make Dolmades

  10. 10. Lentil Soup with Vinegar

    Fakes · Φακές · fah-KES

    Two soups fed Greece. Fasolada is one and this is the other, the quicker of them, since lentils go in unsoaked and are soft within the hour. There is little else: onion, garlic, bay, some tomato and a lot of olive oil. The vinegar goes into each bowl at the table, never the pot.

    Yiayia’s tip: Salt only when tender. Salt added early toughens lentil skins and can add twenty minutes to the cooking time for no benefit.

    1h 7m · Serves 6 · Beginner

    Make Lentil Soup with Vinegar

  11. 11. Rhodes Chickpea and Tomato Fritters

    Pitaroudia · Πιταρούδια · pee-tah-ROO-thee-ah

    A Rhodes fritter that hardly leaves Rhodes. Ask for one on the mainland and expect a blank look. The chickpeas are crushed, not pureed, so the texture is coarse and nutty where falafel is smooth, with grated tomato, onion and plenty of mint. Cumin goes in too, because the Anatolian coast is close.

    Yiayia’s tip: Never use tinned chickpeas. They are already cooked and far too wet. The dish depends on raw soaked chickpeas cooking through during the fry.

    45m · Serves 6 · Beginner

    Make Rhodes Chickpea and Tomato Fritters

  12. 12. Cypriot Black-Eyed Bean Salad with Chard

    Louvi · Λούβι · LOO-vee

    Fasting-day food in Cyprus, and nobody at the table feels deprived. Black-eyed beans are simmered with chard or spinach, given olive oil and lemon while still warm, then left to cool. It is a Lenten staple, vegan as it stands. Serve it as a full plate with bread and olives, not as a side.

    Yiayia’s tip: No soaking needed. Black-eyed beans are thin-skinned enough to cook from fully dry in under an hour, unlike most other dried pulses.

    55m · Serves 4 · Beginner

    Make Cypriot Black-Eyed Bean Salad with Chard

  13. 13. Cypriot Grape Must and Almond Candy

    Soutzoukos · Σουτζιούκος · soo-JOO-kos

    Almonds or walnuts are threaded on a string and dunked over and over in grape must cooked thick, each dip adding a layer until the coat is firm and chewy. Cyprus makes it in autumn, when there are fresh grapes. It has no refined sugar. The work is slow, not hard.

    Yiayia’s tip: Reduce shop-bought grape juice first. Simmering it down by about a third before you start concentrates the flavour closer to genuine fresh must.

    1h 40m · Serves 12 · Intermediate

    Make Cypriot Grape Must and Almond Candy

  14. 14. Cypriot Lenten Tahini Spiral Bread

    Tahinopita · Ταχινόπιτα · tah-hee-NOH-pee-tah

    Baked for Lent, when butter, milk and eggs are not allowed, and it does not taste like going without. The dough is only flour, oil, sugar and yeast. It is spread with tahini, sugar and cinnamon, rolled, then wound into a coil, much as a cinnamon roll is built. It keeps well.

    Yiayia’s tip: Stir the tahini well first. It separates in the jar, with the oil rising to the top. Mix it back together before measuring, or the filling will be uneven.

    1h 10m · Serves 8 · Intermediate

    Make Cypriot Lenten Tahini Spiral Bread

  15. 15. Skordalia

    Σκορδαλιά · skor-dah-lee-AH

    Skordo is garlic in Greek, and the dip is as loud as its name. It goes with bakaliaros, the fried salt cod eaten on March 25th. That is Greek Independence Day and it lands in Lent, so a dip without dairy suits the fast. Mash the potato by hand. A food processor makes wallpaper paste.

    Yiayia’s tip: Boil the potatoes whole and unpeeled. This keeps them from absorbing extra water, which would otherwise thin the finished dip.

    35m · Serves 6 · Beginner

    Make Skordalia

  16. 16. Spanakorizo

    Σπανακόρυζο · spah-nah-KOH-ree-zoh

    Spinach and rice cooked in one pot until the rice has taken on the green. It is one of the ladera dishes, where the olive oil becomes part of the sauce, and among the quickest. Keep it wetter than a pilaf, loose enough for a spoon. Dill and lemon go in at the end.

    Yiayia’s tip: Do not underestimate the spinach quantity. It reduces to roughly a quarter of its raw volume once wilted. What looks like too much going in is exactly right.

    45m · Serves 4 · Beginner

    Make Spanakorizo

  17. 17. Leek and Rice

    Prasorizo · Πρασόρυζο · prah-SOH-ree-zoh

    A winter pot, for the season when leeks are best. They soften over a low heat in a good deal of olive oil until sweet and almost jammy, then simmer with rice into something halfway between risotto and soup. Same method as spanakorizo, but paler and sweeter. Lemon goes in off the heat.

    Yiayia’s tip: Wash sliced, not whole. Slicing the leeks before washing exposes the grit trapped between the layers, which a quick rinse of a whole leek can miss entirely.

    50m · Serves 4 · Beginner

    Make Leek and Rice

  18. 18. Chickpea Fritters

    Revithokeftedes · Ρεβιθοκεφτέδες · reh-vee-thoh-kef-TEH-thes

    A keftes rebuilt around chickpeas, with onion, herbs and cumin, and no mere stand-in for the meat one. They belong most to the Cyclades, where chickpeas are an old staple crop, and to Lent on the mainland. Chickpeas hold more water than people expect, so the mixture must be dry. Chill the patties before frying.

    Yiayia’s tip: Cook dried chickpeas until very soft. Well beyond salad tenderness. A proper long simmer softens them enough to mash easily without extra binders.

    45m · Serves 6 · Beginner

    Make Chickpea Fritters

  19. 19. Eggless Spice Cake for Saint Fanourios

    Fanouropita · Φανουρόπιτα · fah-noo-ROH-pee-tah

    Baked for Saint Fanourios, whose feast is the 27th of August, by people hoping to find something lost. Custom sets the number of ingredients, most often seven or nine, and has the cake given away in pieces. It has no eggs or dairy, so anyone fasting can share it. Dense, like a tea loaf.

    Yiayia’s tip: Do not overwork the batter. There are no eggs here to give structure, so folding gently rather than beating hard keeps the crumb tender rather than tough.

    1h 5m · Serves 12 · Beginner

    Make Eggless Spice Cake for Saint Fanourios

  20. 20. Epirus Cornbread with Greens

    Batzina · Μπατζίνα · bah-DZEE-nah

    The plain, frugal end of Epirus baking, a long way from the region's hand-rolled pies. Cornmeal, water and olive oil, no yeast, baked into a loaf that mountain villages made as everyday bread. Some fold in wild greens or spring onion. Dense is correct: it sits closer to baked polenta than to a risen loaf.

    Yiayia’s tip: Oil the tin generously. Cornbread batter is prone to sticking. A thorough coating of oil helps it release cleanly once baked.

    55m · Serves 8 · Beginner

    Make Epirus Cornbread with Greens

  21. 21. Dodecanese Orzo-Style Pasta with Tomato

    Sitaraki · Σιταράκι · see-tah-RAH-kee

    A small pasta of the Dodecanese, the size and shape of orzo, named from sitari, wheat. It cooks in the tomato and onion sauce itself, not in separate water, and its starch thickens everything into a one-pot meal in half an hour. Orzo or kritharaki behave almost identically if sitaraki cannot be found.

    Yiayia’s tip: Cook the onions properly first. A genuine ten to twelve minutes over low heat builds real sweetness that carries the whole dish alongside the tomato.

    35m · Serves 4 · Beginner

    Make Dodecanese Orzo-Style Pasta with Tomato

  22. 22. Cabbage and Carrot Salad

    Lachanosalata · Λαχανοσαλάτα · lah-hah-noh-sah-LAH-tah

    The plain cabbage salad that sits beside souvlaki or grilled chicken in tavernas all year. Cabbage, carrot, olive oil and either lemon or vinegar, made by feel, never measured. It is not politiki salata, the Constantinople version made around Christmas. Keep the dressing sharp and plain, which is why it works next to grilled meat.

    Yiayia’s tip: Shred it fine. A thick, rough chop leaves the cabbage tasting raw and tough even once dressed. Fine and even is what gives a proper slaw texture.

    15m · Serves 6 · Beginner

    Make Cabbage and Carrot Salad

  23. 23. Frappe

    Frape · Φραπέ · frah-PEH

    An accident. At the Thessaloniki International Fair of 1957 a Nescafe employee could not find hot water for his coffee and shook it with cold water instead. It has been the default cafe order through spring and summer ever since, with its own vocabulary: sketo for no sugar, metrio for medium, gliko for sweet.

    Yiayia’s tip: Only instant coffee whips into foam. Conventionally brewed coffee will not produce the thick foam that defines a proper frappe. Instant is essential, not a compromise.

    5m · Serves 1 · Beginner

    Make Frappe

  24. 24. Sesame Bread Ring

    Koulouri Thessalonikis · Κουλούρι Θεσσαλονίκης · koo-LOO-ree theh-sah-loh-NEE-kis

    Bought, as a rule, not baked. Carts and kiosks sell these sesame rings every morning in Thessaloniki and every large Greek city, and people eat them walking to work or school. The city in the name is where the baking has old roots, back to Ottoman times. Eat them the day they are made.

    Yiayia’s tip: Do not skip the syrup dip. This is what makes the sesame seeds stick properly to the dough. Sprinkling seeds onto dry dough leaves half of them falling off during baking.

    2h · Serves 8 · Intermediate

    Make Sesame Bread Ring

  25. 25. Green Beans in Tomato and Olive Oil

    Fasolakia lathera · Φασολάκια λαδερά · fah-soh-LAH-kyah lah-theh-RAH

    Green beans, with potato and onion, cooked far past the point where other cuisines stop, on purpose. A bean cooked ladera, in olive oil and tomato, is meant to be soft all the way through, never crisp. Finish it uncovered so the sauce thickens. Summer food, often a light main with bread and feta.

    Yiayia’s tip: Do not skimp on the olive oil. It becomes part of the sauce itself over the long simmer. A ladera dish made with too little oil is a noticeably thinner, less satisfying dish.

    1h · Serves 4 · Beginner

    Make Green Beans in Tomato and Olive Oil
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ΜουτζέντραMain Courses · 1h 5m · serves 5Lemon PotatoesPatates lemonates Πατάτες λεμονάτεςSide Dishes · 1h 35m · serves 6Cypriot Pickled Cauliflower and TurnipMoungra ΜούντραDips and Sauces · 30m · serves 10Brandy SourBrandy sour Μπράντι ΣάουρDrinks · 5m · serves 1Sifnos Sunday Chickpea BakeRevithada ΡεβιθάδαMain Courses · 8h 15m · serves 6Corfu Spicy Sauteed GreensTsigareli ΤσιγαρέλιSide Dishes · 30m · serves 4Rhodes Lettuce-Wrapped Rice RollsDolmades me marouli Ντολμάδες με μαρούλιMain Courses · 1h 25m · serves 6Constantinople-Style Cabbage SlawPolitiki salata Πολίτικη σαλάταSalads · 20m · serves 6Sour Cherry CordialVyssinada ΒυσσινάδαDrinks · 5m · serves 1Zakynthos Garlic and Tomato Bread BakeSkordostoumbi Zakynthou Σκορδόστουμπι ΖακύνθουMain Courses · 55m · serves 4Oven Roasted Potatoes with OreganoPatates riganates Πατάτες ριγανάτεςSide Dishes · 1h · serves 4Raw Grated Courgette SaladKolokithosalata ΚολοκυθοσαλάταSalads · 15m · serves 4Grilled Aubergine SkewersSouvlaki melitzanas Σουβλάκι μελιτζάναςMain Courses · 37m · serves 4Sifnos Baked Chickpea PieRevithopita Sifnou Ρεβιθόπιτα ΣίφνουMain Courses · 1h 20m · serves 6Kumquat Spoon SweetGlyko koumkouat Γλυκό κουμκουάτDesserts · 1h 30m · serves 12Plain Chickpea SoupRevithosoupa ΡεβιθόσουπαSoups · 1h 45m · serves 6Unripe Walnut Spoon SweetKarydaki glyko Καρυδάκι γλυκόDesserts · 3h · serves 16Pickled AubergineMelitzanes toursi Μελιτζάνες τουρσίDips and Sauces · 45m · serves 12Boiled Vegetables with Lemon OilVrasta lahanika me ladolemono Βραστά λαχανικά με λαδολέμονοSide Dishes · 45m · serves 4Anatolian-Style Bulgur PilafPilafi me pligouri Πιλάφι με πλιγούριSide Dishes · 30m · serves 4Almond Garlic DipSkordalia me amygdala Σκορδαλιά με αμύγδαλαDips and Sauces · 20m · serves 6Rose Petal Spoon SweetTriantafyllo glyko Τριαντάφυλλο γλυκόDesserts · 1h 20m · serves 16How to Make PetimeziPetimezi ΠετιμέζιDips and Sauces · 2h 45m · serves 20Cypriot Dried Pea SoupLouvana ΛουβάναSoups · 1h 10m · serves 4Apricot Spoon SweetVerikoko glyko Βερίκοκο γλυκόDesserts · 1h 15m · serves 16Halvas FarsalonHalvas Farsalon Χαλβάς ΦαρσάλωνDesserts · 45m · serves 12Roasted Eggplant SoupMelitzanosoupa ΜελιτζανόσουπαSoups · 1h 5m · serves 4Zucchini Shoots and TendrilsKolokithokorfades ΚολοκυθοκορφάδεςSide Dishes · 35m · serves 4Cypriot Pumpkin and Bulgur PastiesKolokotes ΚολοκωτέςBreads and Pies · 1h 25m · serves 6Cypriot Wine and Coriander PotatoesPatates antinaktes Πατάτες αντινακτέςSide Dishes · 40m · serves 4Epirus Wild Greens PieBlatsaria ΜπλατσαριάBreads and Pies · 1h 45m · serves 8Cypriot Bulgur Wheat PilafPourgouri pilafi Πουργούρι πιλάφιSide Dishes · 35m · serves 6Chickpeas with SpinachRevithia me spanaki Ρεβίθια με σπανάκιSoups · 1h 35m · serves 5Cubes of Cyprus delight loukoumia dusted in icing sugar on a plateCyprus Delights, Rose and MasticLoukoumia ΛουκούμιαDesserts · 1h 30m · serves 30

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