Cypriot Stuffed Vine Leaves with Meat (Koupepia)

Ask for dolmades in Cyprus and you may get a slightly puzzled look, because the everyday word there is koupepia, and the everyday version has meat in it. Greek dolmadakia yialantzi, the rice-only kind, exist too, but koupepia are what a Cypriot household actually makes on a Sunday.

The technique is close to its mainland relative: rice goes in raw so it absorbs flavour as it swells, the rolls are packed tight and weighted so they cannot unravel, and the whole thing simmers gently rather than boils. What is distinctly Cypriot is the mint running through the filling and, in many households, an avgolemono sauce poured over at the very end rather than the leaves being served simply dressed in oil.

It is an hour of rolling and forty minutes of no further effort. Good company at the table while you roll makes the hour disappear.

Key preparation steps

1. Rinse jarred vine leaves well to remove excess brine.
2. Mix raw rice with minced meat, onion, mint and tomato.
3. Roll tight, seam side down, and pack close in the pot.
4. Weight with a plate, simmer gently, then finish with avgolemono.

What goes into the filling

Minced pork, beef, or a mix of the two, with raw medium-grain rice, grated onion, chopped mint, a spoon of tomato paste and olive oil. The meat to rice ratio is roughly even, which gives koupepia more body than the vegetarian version and means they can stand as a main course rather than a meze.

Mint is the ingredient that marks these out as Cypriot rather than mainland Greek, where dill usually leads. Use it generously, both fresh chopped through the filling and, if you like, a few whole leaves tucked into the rolls.

Season the raw filling more assertively than seems sensible. It has to carry through both the rice and the leaf as everything cooks.

Rolling and weighting

Rinse the vine leaves twice under running water if they are jarred, since the brine is strong. Lay each leaf shiny side down, stem towards you, snip off the stem, and place a well-packed teaspoon of filling in a line near that end.

Fold the stem end over, fold in both sides, then roll away from you into a tight cigar shape. Tight is not optional: the rice will roughly triple in volume as it cooks and a loose roll opens straight away.

Line the pot with any torn or spare leaves, pack the rolls in tight concentric circles seam side down, and sit a heatproof plate directly on top before adding liquid. That plate is what stops the whole batch unrolling as the rice swells.

To finish with avgolemono, or not

Plenty of Cypriot households simmer koupepia in a tomato-based liquid and serve them as they are, in which case a squeeze of lemon at the table is all that is needed. Just as many finish with a proper avgolemono, the egg and lemon liaison, poured over once the koupepia are cooked.

If you go the avgolemono route, take the pot off the heat completely before you begin, temper the beaten egg and lemon with hot cooking liquid a ladleful at a time, then pour it back over the koupepia rather than into a separate pan. It coats them rather than mixing right through, which is the texture you want.

Either way, do not boil the pot again once the egg has gone in.

What matters in this dish