Method

25 Baked Greek Recipes

Sto fourno, in the oven. Greek home cooking sends an extraordinary amount of food to the oven in one large dish, often to a bakery down the road in the old days.

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Sto fourno, in the oven. Greek home cooking sends an extraordinary amount of food to the oven in one large dish, and in the old days that often meant the bakery down the road.

The savoury side is trays: moussaka, pastitsio, gemista, briam, giant beans, kleftiko, giouvetsi, lemon chicken with its potatoes. They go in and are left alone. Pastitsio has to rest before it is cut, and the beans are better the next day.

The sweet side is phyllo, cookies, sweet bread and cakes: baklava, galaktoboureko, bougatsa, melomakarona, kourabiedes, tsoureki, portokalopita. The pies sit between the two. Spanakopita and tiropita are the ones to learn phyllo on.

Every recipe on Kalliopi's Kitchen carries the dish's Greek name and a pronunciation, its region where that is meaningful, ingredient quantities in both metric and imperial, and an honest note on what commonly goes wrong. Nutrition figures are calculated estimates and are labelled as such.

  1. 1. Moussaka

    Mousakas · Μουσακάς · moo-sah-KAHS

    When people say Greek food, this is usually what they mean, and it is also the dish that gets ruined most. Water does it, not bad ingredients. Cook the meat sauce drier than looks right and keep the bechamel thick. It is no weeknight dinner, but nearly all of it can be made ahead.

    Yiayia’s tip: Salt the aubergines even if the packet says you do not need to. Modern aubergines are far less bitter than they used to be, so salting is often called unnecessary. That misses the point. Salting collapses the cell structure and drives out water, which means the slices absorb less oil and hold their shape in the bake.

    1h 55m · Serves 8 · Intermediate

    Make Moussaka
  2. 2. Spanakopita

    Σπανακόπιτα · spah-nah-KOH-pee-tah

    Pies are the centre of Greek home baking, and this is the one that left the country. Greens and cheese in quantity, almost nothing else, inside pastry thin enough to read through. Every sheet has to be brushed with fat. Dry phyllo fuses into one papery slab, and the separate leaves are the point.

    Yiayia’s tip: Squeeze harder than you think necessary. If any liquid at all comes out when you press the filling in the bowl, go back and squeeze again. This one step decides the pie.

    1h 30m · Serves 8 · Intermediate

    Make Spanakopita
  3. 3. Pastitsio

    Παστίτσιο · pah-STEE-tsee-oh

    The baked pasta Greek families make more often than moussaka, because it costs less, forgives more and nobody at the table refuses it. Two things make it Greek and not Italian: cinnamon in the meat sauce, and a bechamel layer as deep as the pasta underneath it.

    Yiayia’s tip: Lay the pasta the same way. If you are using long tubes, lay them all running in one direction. Cutting across the grain afterwards gives clean square portions rather than ragged ones.

    1h 40m · Serves 8 · Intermediate

    Make Pastitsio
  4. 4. Baklava

    Baklavas · Μπακλαβάς · bahk-lah-VAHS

    The one everybody thinks they know. The Greek version is walnuts, not pistachios, with a heavy hand of cinnamon and clove and a syrup built on honey. Nothing in it is difficult. The layering takes as long as it takes, and the syrup decides whether you end up with crisp or soggy.

    Yiayia’s tip: Do not stir the syrup once it boils. Stirring a boiling sugar syrup encourages crystallisation. Dissolve the sugar as it heats, then leave it alone.

    1h 45m · Serves 24 · Intermediate

    Make Baklava
  5. 5. Baked Giant Beans in Tomato

    Gigantes plaki · Γίγαντες πλακί · YEE-ghan-des plah-KEE

    The beans come mainly from Kastoria and Prespes in northern Greece. They are larger and creamier than a butter bean and drink up sauce without collapsing. This is a ladera dish: the olive oil is the sauce, not a mistake in the recipe. It is vegan as it stands, and on every Greek fasting table.

    Yiayia’s tip: Old beans never soften. Dried beans more than a year or so old can refuse to cook properly no matter what you do. If a batch is still hard after an hour of simmering, the beans are the problem, not your method.

    2h 5m · Serves 6 · Beginner

    Make Baked Giant Beans in Tomato
  6. 6. Galaktoboureko

    Γαλακτομπούρεκο · gha-lahk-toh-BOO-reh-koh

    Baklava is more famous. This is the one that people raised on both ask for: a thick custard scented with lemon, shut inside phyllo, with cold syrup poured over the hot pie. Semolina sets the custard firm enough to cut clean. The phyllo is simpler than baklava, only two blocks of layers.

    Yiayia’s tip: Rain the semolina, do not dump it. Adding it all at once guarantees lumps. A thin steady stream with constant whisking gives a smooth custard first time.

    1h 30m · Serves 12 · Intermediate

    Make Galaktoboureko
  7. 7. Pork Gyros

    Gyros · Γύρος · YEE-ros

    Nobody has a vertical rotisserie at home and nobody needs one. Marinated pork slices are pressed onto an upright skewer in a tin and roasted as one piece, so the fat runs down and bastes what is below. Then the meat is sliced thin and crisped in a hot pan. Most home versions skip that.

    Yiayia’s tip: Freeze briefly before slicing. Forty minutes in the freezer firms the joint enough to slice thin and evenly. Trying to slice soft pork shoulder thinly is genuinely difficult.

    2h · Serves 6 · Intermediate

    Make Pork Gyros
  8. 8. Gemista

    Γεμιστά · yeh-mee-STAH

    Stuffed tomatoes and peppers, and two rules govern them. The rice is raw when it goes in, and nothing is filled past two thirds, because rice cooked first goes to paste and a full tomato bursts. The potatoes wedged in the gaps catch the juices. Many Greeks think them the best thing in the tray.

    Yiayia’s tip: Salt and drain the tomato shells. Ten minutes upside down removes excess water that would otherwise make the rice sloppy.

    2h 10m · Serves 6 · Beginner

    Make Gemista
  9. 9. Melomakarona

    Μελομακάρονα · meh-lo-mah-KAH-ro-nah

    Every Greek household bakes these at Christmas and every household argues about them: how much orange, brandy or no brandy, soft all the way through or a little bite left in the middle. They have no butter and no eggs, and they are better on day three than on day one, so make them ahead.

    Yiayia’s tip: Do not knead. Fold the dough until it just holds together and stop. Kneaded dough makes tough cookies that will not absorb syrup.

    1h 5m · Serves 30 · Beginner

    Make Melomakarona
  10. 10. Briam

    Μπριάμ · bree-AHM

    It looks like ratatouille and works the opposite way. Ratatouille keeps each vegetable separate. Here courgette, aubergine, pepper, potato and tomato all go in one tray and cook until they stop being separate things, their water and the olive oil turning to sauce. Forty minutes gives roasted vegetables. Ninety gives briam.

    Yiayia’s tip: Use a big tray. A deep pile takes far longer and steams rather than browning. A large shallow layer is what you want, even if it means using two tins.

    2h · Serves 6 · Beginner

    Make Briam
  11. 11. Tiropita

    Τυρόπιτα · tee-ROH-pee-tah

    The pie Greeks eat most, usually standing up, before ten in the morning, from a bakery window. With no spinach to hide behind, the cheese has to be right. Feta alone bakes dense, rubbery and too salty, so a soft mild cheese goes in with it: anthotyro, mizithra or ricotta, two parts feta to one.

    Yiayia’s tip: Soak the feta if it is very salty. Twenty minutes in fresh water or milk before crumbling takes the edge off without losing the character of the cheese.

    1h 15m · Serves 8 · Beginner

    Make Tiropita
  12. 12. Kleftiko

    Κλέφτικο · KLEF-tee-koh

    Kleftis means thief. The klefts were mountain fighters under Ottoman rule who stole a sheep and had to cook it with no smoke to give them away, so it went into a closed pit over embers. A sealed parcel does the pit's job now. Twenty-five minutes of work, then four hours unopened in the oven.

    Yiayia’s tip: Two layers, paper inside foil. Foil alone can react with the lemon and leave a metallic edge on the meat. Baking paper next to the food and foil outside it gives you a reliable seal without that risk.

    4h 25m · Serves 6 · Beginner

    Make Kleftiko
  13. 13. Prawns with Feta and Tomato

    Garides saganaki · Γαρίδες σαγανάκι · ghah-REE-des sah-ghah-NAH-kee

    Prawns in sharp tomato sauce with feta on top, finished under the grill or in the oven. Saganaki is the pan, not a cheese. Timing is the only way to spoil it: the sauce needs twenty minutes and the prawns three or four. A splash of ouzo flamed in the pan gives the taverna taste.

    Yiayia’s tip: Do not let the feta fully melt. Feta softens and browns rather than melting smoothly. Pull it out while there are still distinct pieces, which is the texture you want against the sauce.

    37m · Serves 4 · Beginner

    Make Prawns with Feta and Tomato
  14. 14. Bougatsa

    Μπουγάτσα · boo-GHAH-tsah

    Thessaloniki's breakfast, eaten standing at a counter, cut into squares with scissors and passed across in paper. Refugees from Asia Minor brought it in the 1920s. People confuse it with galaktoboureko, which is firm and drenched in syrup. This one is softer and never sees syrup, only icing sugar and cinnamon.

    Yiayia’s tip: Err on the loose side. The custard thickens as it cools and again in the oven. If it looks right in the pan it will be stodgy on the plate.

    1h 10m · Serves 8 · Intermediate

    Make Bougatsa
  15. 15. Kourabiedes

    Κουραμπιέδες · koo-rah-bee-EH-des

    The other Christmas cookie, and the opposite of melomakarona in every way: almost pure butter and almond, baked pale, then buried in icing sugar. There is so little else in them that the butter you buy is the cookie you get. Nobody has ever eaten one tidily.

    Yiayia’s tip: Pale, not golden. A browned kourabies is overbaked. They should look almost underdone when they come out, set but barely coloured.

    52m · Serves 30 · Beginner

    Make Kourabiedes
  16. 16. Cypriot Easter Cheese Pastries

    Flaounes · Φλαούνες · flah-OO-nes

    Easter baking in Cyprus, done once a year and in huge batches, because every relative expects a share. A yeasted dough scented with mahlepi and mastic is folded around grated hard cheeses, egg, dried mint and often raisins, then topped with sesame. It is a project that fills most of a day.

    Yiayia’s tip: Make the filling a day ahead. It firms up overnight in the fridge, which makes shaping far easier and lets the mint and cheese flavours settle together.

    2h 5m · Serves 16 · Advanced

    Make Cypriot Easter Cheese Pastries
  17. 17. Cypriot Baked Macaroni

    Makaronia tou fournou · Μακαρόνια του φούρνου · mah-kah-ROH-nyah too FOOR-noo

    Cyprus's version of pastitsio, and the difference is on top. There is no bechamel. Halloumi is grated into beaten egg and poured over the pasta, where it sets like a savoury custard, salty and springy. The meat sauce underneath has the same cinnamon. With no roux to go wrong, it is the easier dish.

    Yiayia’s tip: Grate the halloumi coarsely. A fine grate disappears into the egg. Coarse shreds keep some texture in the finished topping.

    1h 35m · Serves 8 · Intermediate

    Make Cypriot Baked Macaroni
  18. 18. Cypriot Lenten Tahini Spiral Bread

    Tahinopita · Ταχινόπιτα · tah-hee-NOH-pee-tah

    Baked for Lent, when butter, milk and eggs are not allowed, and it does not taste like going without. The dough is only flour, oil, sugar and yeast. It is spread with tahini, sugar and cinnamon, rolled, then wound into a coil, much as a cinnamon roll is built. It keeps well.

    Yiayia’s tip: Stir the tahini well first. It separates in the jar, with the oil rising to the top. Mix it back together before measuring, or the filling will be uneven.

    1h 10m · Serves 8 · Intermediate

    Make Cypriot Lenten Tahini Spiral Bread
  19. 19. Lemon Roast Chicken and Potatoes

    Kotopoulo lemonato · Κοτόπουλο λεμονάτο · koh-TOH-poo-loh leh-moh-NAH-toh

    The tray tied most closely to Sunday lunch in Greece. Chicken joints and potato wedges roast together in lemon, oregano, garlic and olive oil, and the potatoes come out tasting of the chicken as much as of the lemon. Use bone-in pieces with the skin on. After the marinating it mostly looks after itself.

    Yiayia’s tip: Give the potatoes a head start. Twenty minutes alone in the oven before the chicken joins them is what lets both finish tender and golden at the same time.

    1h 35m · Serves 4 · Beginner

    Make Lemon Roast Chicken and Potatoes
  20. 20. Giouvetsi

    Γιουβέτσι · yoo-VEHT-see

    Named for its pot, an individual clay dish traditionally used for cooking and serving. Beef braises in a tomato sauce warmed with cinnamon, then orzo, kritharaki in Greek, goes into the same dish and drinks the sauce as it bakes. The sauce should look too loose at that point. The orzo takes a lot.

    Yiayia’s tip: Do not rush the beef stage. The braise needs its full two hours to reach the fall-apart tenderness that makes this dish worth the effort. The orzo stage is quick by comparison.

    2h 55m · Serves 6 · Intermediate

    Make Giouvetsi
  21. 21. Tsoureki

    Τσουρέκι · tsoo-REH-kee

    The Easter bread: three braided strands under egg wash, often with a red-dyed egg set into it. Torn open, it pulls into long feathery threads where a brioche would be dense. Two aromatics set it apart from any plain enriched dough: mastic, a tree resin from Chios, and mahlepi, the ground kernels of cherry pits.

    Yiayia’s tip: Do not skimp on the kneading time. Ten to fifteen minutes of proper kneading is what develops the gluten structure behind tsoureki's characteristic pull-apart, stringy crumb.

    1h 30m · Serves 12 · Advanced

    Make Tsoureki
  22. 22. Koulourakia

    Κουλουράκια · koo-loo-RAH-kee-ah

    Baked in enormous batches before Easter, because they keep well and get eaten all through Easter week. The dough is a plain butter one with vanilla and orange zest, and baking it is the easy part. The time goes on shaping: ropes rolled by hand and twisted into spirals, braids and figure-eights, one by one.

    Yiayia’s tip: Do not overwork the flour. Fold it in only until the dough comes together. Overworking it gives a tough, chewy cookie rather than a tender, short one.

    1h · Serves 30 · Beginner

    Make Koulourakia
  23. 23. New Year Cake with the Hidden Coin

    Vasilopita · Βασιλόπιτα · vah-see-LOH-pee-tah

    Named for Saint Basil and cut at New Year in a fixed order, with the first slices set aside before anyone eats. A coin is hidden inside, and whoever finds it is said to have the luck for the year. The cake itself is plain on purpose: orange-scented and only lightly sweet.

    Yiayia’s tip: Tell everyone about the coin before cutting. It is essential both for the fun of the tradition and, more practically, so nobody bites down on it by surprise.

    1h 10m · Serves 12 · Beginner

    Make New Year Cake with the Hidden Coin
  24. 24. Walnut Spice Cake

    Karydopita · Καρυδόπιτα · kah-ree-THOH-pee-tah

    A cake made mostly of ground walnuts, with only enough flour to hold it together, spiced with cinnamon and clove and soaked in syrup the moment it leaves the oven. It comes out dense, nutty and moist all the way through. Of the Greek syrup cakes, this is one of the hardest to get wrong.

    Yiayia’s tip: Hot cake, cold syrup. One side hot and the other cold is the rule for every baked Greek syrup sweet. Make the syrup first and let it cool completely. Hot syrup on a hot cake leaves the crumb heavy and wet.

    1h 5m · Serves 12 · Beginner

    Make Walnut Spice Cake
  25. 25. Portokalopita

    Πορτοκαλόπιτα · por-toh-kah-LOH-pee-tah

    A cake that does to phyllo everything phyllo is never supposed to suffer. The sheets are left out to dry, torn by hand into rough pieces and folded into a wet orange batter, where they soften and puff. Then orange syrup goes over. No rolling, no layering, and the pieces should be coin-sized, not crumbs.

    Yiayia’s tip: Really let the phyllo dry out fully. Sheets that are still even slightly pliable do not shred properly and give a denser, less characteristic texture.

    1h 15m · Serves 15 · Beginner

    Make Portokalopita
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