Caul Fat

Caul fat is the lacy membrane of fat that surrounds a pig's stomach, called bolia in Greece and panna in Cyprus, and it is used as a wrapper rather than eaten as a fat in its own right. Stretched out on a board it looks like a web of white lace, and it melts away almost completely during cooking, basting whatever is inside it as it goes.

Cypriot sheftalia are the clearest example. Minced pork with grated onion, parsley and cinnamon is rolled up in squares of caul and grilled over charcoal, with no sausage skin and no added fat, because the caul does both jobs at once. The same membrane holds together parcels of chopped offal and keeps lean cuts moist over a fire where nothing else would.

It has to be ordered from a butcher, and it usually arrives frozen or packed in salt. Thaw it slowly, then soak it in warm water with a splash of lemon juice or vinegar until the lace relaxes and separates, since it tears easily if it is unfolded stiff. Keep the fire moderate too, because the melting fat drips and flares over hot coals.