Swordfish

Xifias is handled less like fish and more like meat in a Greek kitchen, sold in thick steaks with a firm, close grain that holds together on a skewer without falling apart. Xifias souvlaki, cubes threaded with peppers and onion and grilled over charcoal, is the most common preparation, and the fish is dressed with ladolemono the moment it comes off the fire.

It is very lean, and that is the whole difficulty with it. Swordfish carries little internal fat to protect it, so it dries out considerably faster than an oily fish and is best pulled off the heat while the centre is still barely translucent, then left to sit for a minute or two before it goes to the table.

A short marinade in olive oil, lemon and oregano before grilling helps, though the acid should not sit on the fish for much more than half an hour or it begins to cure the surface. As a large, long-lived predator, swordfish carries more mercury than smaller fish, and health guidance in most countries suggests eating it only occasionally.